Site Visit - Where I will be for the next two years

Well, this is the time where the proverbial rubber meets the road. On Monday I departed my secure little home in Kratovo for a 2-hour bus ride to Skopje where my "counterpart" (person I will be working with for the next two years) picked me up to go to Jance - Mavorovo Rostuse Macedonia in the northwestern part of the country. I was somewhat anxious as I knew he did not speak English and my Macedonian is limited to the very basics. As it turned out "Tefik" was sympathetic to my plith and spoke slowly and used basic Macedonian when possible. We went to the "pazar" (outdoor market) to get vegetables and fruit for his restaurant (he owns a hotel and restaurant in Jance). From there we went grocery shopping for "meso" (meat) which. Then off for lunch. After which we spent the next two hours making a very concerted effort to communicate about each other - WOW, does this really sap the old brain cells, I was beat by the time we got to Jance. It was dark so I had no idea what to expect and was anxious for morning to see what I had gotten myself into. We had a few "beverages" and then off to bed. I got to stay in the hotel and had a shower in a "real" shower, and a toilet you didn't need to squat to take a #2, aaaaaah the luxuries of life.

My counterpart Tefik in front of his hotel

I was up around 7 and was not prepared for what I was about to see. I have to tell you, ass many of you know, I am not prone to being impressed by much, but what I saw was spectacular. I have rarely seen a more beautiful setting in all of my worldly travels. As you can see by the pictures it is a sight to behold. Many of the houses in the village are well over 250 years (yes 250) old, more about this later. The village is built into a hillside, as are all of the surrounding villages. The population of Jance is no more than 50 people. There is a school with 6 students and once they go to middle school there will o longer be a school.

River Marovo

My Village - Jance

You can see the Mosque in the background

My village

So one of Tefik's many projects is to sponsor a program to educate adults on how to build, or rebuild, houses in the village using local (from the village) materials and original processes. He wants to rebuild all of the old houses that are beginning to fall apart in their original state. He has received great support from the state government and is now working with adult education centers as well as universities and other organizations to get students to come to Jance so he can teach them how to do this. Tefik is passionate about preserving the historical aspects of Macedonia as well as the natural foods available in the area. This will be one of the projects I will be working on as a part of "Slow Foods" NGO, preserving and promoting the local natural foods as well as looking at the possibilities of exporting these foods across Europe.

Tefik and I went on a 5-hour walk around the village as he explained and described all of the local flora and it possible uses, from vitamins, to tea, to healing properties, it was an interesting experience. When we were finished, I was not only "pooped" but my head was swimming with ideas and the possibilities of making Jance a center for true Macedonia cultural experience for all tourists across the world. I forgot to mention that Jance is in the largest National Park in Macedonia and is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the Balkans and western Europe. There is skiing in the winter, kayaking and white water rafting, horseback riding, trekking and relaxing in the Summer. The challenge is where to begin. Some of the best cheeses as well as vegetables are available locally, the challenge is how to get the produce to market and get the farmers to participate. For some strange reason money is not the motivator, probably because they never had any, so the challenge is to find the motivator to get the local farmers and sheep owners involved, another of my jobs. As if it isn't challenging enough, my limited Macedonia will only add to the overall experience. I guess that's why I am getting the BIG bucks as a volunteer...

Traditional house in mid-restoration

250+ year old house

Need restoration

Definitly needs restoration - will use all existing materials

So for three days we discussed challenges, opportunities and projects (many I will unfortunately not be around to see come to fruition). As you might guess this was no easy task. I discovered that Tefik spoke German, as his wife is from Germany, and he also speaks fluent Italia (he lived in Italy for 20+ years). So between my limited German, Italian and Macedonian and Tefik's limited english and fluent German, Italian and Macedonia we set about making a plan of attack. what took us a full day and half would have normally take a day, or at best several hours, but we did accomplish a great deal and when I show-up on the 29th I can hit the ground running.

When I got home to Kratovo around 7 my host father was waiting at the bus station and I have to tell you it felt comfortable to be back on familiar ground. I got a big hug and a hearty welcome home which made me feel great. We chatted on the way home about my experience (in Macedonian) and sat down to Rakia, salad and pastomiaka, my favorite. It was great to be home!

So, now it is back to the grind of language class from 8-1 and study, study, study for my final language test in two weeks. I will be sad to leave Kratove and especially my host family. I am sure I will be back often for visits and the great food Lile prepares.

My new home for the next two years

Village across the river from Jance

Same village

This adventure ends and another begins, what a great decision I made, I wouldn't change it for anything. The Peace Corps is right-on when they say this will be the toughest job I will ever love.