Monday, September 16, 2013

Fall in Kratovo and Update on my First Year in Macedonia

Well, it  has been one year yesterday since arriving in Macedonia to begin my 27-month tour with the Peace Corps. As the saying goes, "it seems like only yesterday...", The year has gone fast and not without its challenges which have been overshadowed by the great people and cultural activities I have been exposed to. Albeit the language challenges this has been one of the most rewarding experiences of my life and I am still not disappointed in my decision, aside from missing my kids and grandchildren.

As I said in an earlier post I moved back to Kratovo, where it all began a year ago, to work for an NGO (Non Governmental Organization) called Regional Center for Sustainable Development (RCSD). Aside from numerous activities with the youth of the community we support a variety of social programs focused on the elderly and handicapped citizens. However, the NGO will, and has, gotten involved in many different activities that support the well being of the community. I am in the middle of preparing a grant request to renovate the firehouse living quarters in Kratovo. The firehouse is nothing like we see in America, it is sparsely furnished, no toilet, running water or kitchen facilities. The sleeping room has two beds with mattresses only and the floor covering throughout has long-since worn away. So, we (the NGO and I) decided to see if we could get a grant to renovate the living area and make it a bit more comfortable for the firemen on duty. Other projects will include working with the schools to encourage students to participate in the Peace Corps' sponsored events; Model UN, Annual National Spelling Bee, Annual National Essay Writing contest and debate teams. So, my last year will be busy, finally. Of course we were told not to expect great things our first year, so I guess the experts were correct.

This is the NGO offices where I work. We are above the best pizza restaurant in Kratovo, just what I need.


The tower in the background is one of six in Kratovo and is several hundred years old.

My desk...


I am headed to Oktoberfest on the 22nd of September for a taste of a few good beers. Flying on WizzAir for under $100 RT and staying at a hostel called "The Tent". Yes it is a tent with "ome" beds, or I can sleep on the floor...Then I will be off to Istanbul on the 11th of October (I told you my last year would be busy!) for a four day excursion.

Well, you can tell winter is on its way. Cold in the evenings (10-15) and warm in the day (20s), finally. It is my favorite time of the year. Not to mention the every-year occurrence of making wine, ajvar and rajkia.

 Making Ajvar - roasted, crushed peppers, sunflower oil and some salt boiled to a thick paste and put in jars. Ajvar is generally eaten as a spread on bread and as a compliment to meals. It has "zero" nutritional value as all vitamins are cooke out of the peppers.

Stirring for hours on end.


















Making wine is equally as arduous process. Removing the grapes from the stems, crushing them (no more feet crushers) and then leaving to ferment. The results are really pretty good table wine to be enjoyed throughout the year.

One tonne of grapes begin the process

Separating the grapes from the stems

Lile and Mone separating grapes from the stems

Lile does most of the work


No more mashing with feet. This is a 50 liter barrel full of grapes

This is a neighborhood event, with friends all helping

...and the final bottling of last year's wine
Rajkia, the ever-present "white lightning" of Macedonia. Nothing goes to waste. Rajkia is made from the grapes that made the wine. Comes out clear and is bottled with different varieties of wood added for flavor and color, generally oak. Homemade rajkia is generally between 60 and 65 proof and is enjoyed at anytime of the day or night - yes even early in the morning. It is an acquired taste, but after you acquire a liking for it, not too bad.




Well, this is probably enough for this post, don;t want to spoil my readers. Hope everyone is safe and getting ready for the winter season. Take care.

P.S. Heather got a BIG part in her first ever play at school, I wish I were going to be there to see her debut, this is the tough part about being away from home. Break a leg Heather, I know you will be fabulous!

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