Well, I am in Ukraine. Flew to Miami for 2 days of orientation and then onto Ukraine via a 12-hour plane ride. Three days of more orientation and focus on language, adjusting to time difference (10 hours ahead for me), eating new foods and bring to figure out where to store all my stuff.

I have been placed with a great host family in Chernihiv, a city of about 300,000 in the norther (Western Ukraine) part of the country. We are close to Chernobyl, the Belarus and Russian borders. This is a great city and lots to explore. My host family has a 6-year old boy a 17-year old son and a 23-year old daughter. The son is away at Technical school and the daughter works each day. I have a very large room and very comfortable.

We had our first class today with our LCF (Language and Cultural Facilitator) to give us the rundown on the daily schedule - it is intense. There are four other volunteers in my group all around the same age.

So today is a holiday, Maskenitka. It is the celebration for the end of Winter and start of Lent. Guess what? It is snowing, cold and windy. Guess someone forgot to tell Ma Nature about the end of Winter.

Well that's it for awhile. I will post pictures on my next writing.

PART DEUX - starts on March 6th with a 7+ hour flight to Miami for staging and a meet and greet the other volunteers headed to Ukraine with me. Miami, you say, why? Who knows, it's the government, maybe flights are less expensive from there to Ukraine. Anyhow, it will be sun and fun for a couple of days. We head to Munich on March 8th then onto Ukraine.

I will once again have 3-months of Pre Service Training (PST) with language and cultural immersion. I have to say I feel much more prepared this time than when I went to Macedonia. Peace Corps (PC) Ukraine has a very intensive pre-departure language course that we have n=been studying for the past 3-4 months and fortunately my Macedonian skills are most helpful.

I will post pictures and make EVERY effort to be diligent about keeping my blog updated as I know there are thousands of you anxiously awaiting my updates.

...and my two-year adventure comes to an end

So, in two weeks it will be my two year anniversary in Macedonia, hard to believe. I am scheduled to leave Macedonia on November 16th. I will go to Prague for 4-weeks of TEFL training and head back to the US on December 15. Home in time for Christmas. I am sure my last ninety days in Macedonia will be filled with endless "gostis" and sad farewells. Although challenging at times, I will miss my host family who have been wonderful and taken care of me for the past 2-years.

I am sure many of you are asking just what it is I accomplished in two years - good question. Well, the tangibles are:

1.  A wild herb, tea and mushroom collection center funded and supported by USAID (your tax dollars at work) in Jance. The collection center put over 100 community members to work collecting wild herbs and teas. This in an area where unemployment is well above 40%.

2.  The recommendation for increasing tourism in one of Macedonia's largest national parks, Mavrovo, by developing a project plan for  the first-ever "cheese trail" in Macedonia. The cheese trail is a collaboration between the sheep farmers, the national park and the local government. The intent is to offer a venue for tourists to visit sheep farms to see how sheep cheeses are made. In addition, they will have an opportunity to taste and purchase sheep cheeses. This has a twofold impact; one, it will help preserve a dying art of making cheese, which is being replaced by large manufacturing and two, will help increase tourism in Macedonia.

3.  The creation of a "community center" in the Municipality of Kratovo. This was a project funded by a $4,000 SPA grant supported by USAID and Peace Corps. The community center will offer a place for citizens to gather for events such as language classes, blood drives, meetings and any other event that has a community benefit.

So, these are the tangible projects and impact on citizens of Macedonia. The above may not sound like earth-shattering projects but when you consider the impact they will have on the communities and citizens in Macedonia it is really quite overwhelming. Peace Corps feels that if a volunteer has positively impacted one life it is a success for the volunteer. If that is the measure I have been very successful.

The intangibles are the good will we leave behind and the favorable impression of America many Macedonians will have once we are gone. This is equally as important as accomplishing the physical things. I have made many great friends and had many interesting discussion about America - many changing perceptions gotten from television.

On a more personal and selfish perspective this has been by far one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. I have to admit, I had my doubts about the impact my two years in Macedonia would have on me. Living in a country that is certainly developing, with a fair number of modern conveniences, still has its challenges, especially when you compare the lifestyle of Americans to the lifestyle of Macedonians. It is a warm inviting culture where people are taken at face value. Family and close friends are paramount to their daily lives and as such you are never far from a visit to or from family or friends. Gostis are by far one of the most impressive and enjoyable experiences of living in Macedonia, hardly a week goes by without having a social visit. And of course food and "beverage" are always served, regardless of time of day.

The younger volunteers have restored my faith in the future of America and I hope the volunteers I have had the privilege of serving with are not the exception but rather the rule. These young men and women are caring, dedicated and determined to make a difference. Their idealism is refreshing and generally does not waiver. I have thoroughly enjoyed "hanging" with them and pleasantly surprised when asked to do so - they appear to be "age-blind", which makes me feel like I am a genuine part of the team.

To any and all who are reading this, if you are at a loss as to what to do for a couple of years, I highly encourage you to look into the Peace Corps, regardless of age and background, there is a place for everyone.

What is next for me? I don't have a clue. I am toying with the idea of doing another two years in a different country or maybe heading somewhere to teach English as a foreign language. Or maybe house sitting in Europe. Guess I will do what I generally do and make an impulsive decision and live with it.

It's been fun. My apologies for not being more prolific in writing my blog, but hope you have enjoyed the infrequent posts. Until my next adventure, take care, enjoy life and the people you meet every day, we all have something to offer we may just have to look a little harder to find it.

Pozdrav

Ambassador Wholers, US Ambassador to Macedonia

Corey our Country Director

Spelling Bee winners

Cooking Manja during celebration of St Mary's Day

Receiving a blessing from the Pope

Isn't a gathering without music

Manja ready to be served

Everyone gets some

My host families back patio - a virtual museum

Ski center

Corey hosting a gathering of "older" volunteers

Doc Mimi and Karen 

Rob Merrigan (from Sun River) and Corey

Gourds for drinking

Hello!

One of my favorite English students - Glorija

A school in a village

Elana

Meri and Toni

Lile's house growing up

A resident of Sveti Nikola

Church in Sveti Nikola

Emma, volunteer in Sveti Nikola

Meri, the Spring Princess

Mone preparing the sheep for a celebration

When I returned from America

Cooking bread

Summer means watermellon filed with wine

Dancing is always at any gathering

Elana lighting candles outside church

Monika and Elana and their "Dado"

90+ and resting Liles grandmother

My birthday cake you they got the age correct

Another gosti

Transportation

Of course, music

Happy Holidays

The holiday season. What I miss most are being with my family – my children and my grandchildren. The realization that I took the holidays so much for granted really never hit home until I was away from my family during the holidays – starting with Thanksgiving right on through New Years. The commercialization of Christmas becomes much more apparent when you live in a country that views the holidays as a time to be with family and friends, rather than gifting. Macedonians do not celebrate Christmas on the 25^th of December, although there are pockets putting forth an effort. Stores have caught on to the American shopping season, but have not met with the success seen in America. Malls are decorated, streets have lights as do some homes. But, the majority see the 25^th as just another workday.

The Christmas season for Macedonia is from the 6^th through the 8^th of January. We will be celebrating Christmas on the 7^th of January (Orthodox calendar). This is a day where only families get together and enjoy each other’s company. Lots of food is prepared and eating occurs throughout the day. On the 6^th of January most all villages have a large bonfire in a central location where village residents congregate and exchange food and beverages (generally hot Rakija or wine, all homemade of course). On the 8^th is when friends visit each other’s homes for na gosti (get together) and we eat more food. The entire three days is all about family, friends and church. Gifts are generally not exchanged, which is a good thing.

New Years eve is a time for partying, fireworks and the frequent firing of guns into the air. For me I will be with my host family, visiting friends, in a nearby community. We will have a 30 lb roast pig, and all of the trimmings to go with it. And of course, Rakija, wine and beer, no meal, regardless of time of day, is without. New year’s day is void of football and television – but many hangovers.

So to keep this short, I think I like the concept of spending holidays with family and friends and not worrying about buying gifts and trying to figure out how I will pay for them in the new year.

As I said, I do miss my kids and grandkids and my special friends. I would ask each of you, reading this, to cherish the time you have with family and friends and not worry so much about who can give the best gift – after all the best gift is you!

Happy holidays. I hope this new year brings you happiness and prosperity (regardless of how you define it). Be safe, love one another and enjoy your family and friends. I hope to see all of you in 2014.

Harry

Istanbul in October 11-14, 2013

OK, so I am a bit behind in posting. I think I warned you when first I wrote back in September of 2012, so no complaints.

Went to Istanbul with Nancy another volunteer from Oregon. First I have to say what a great city and four days is not nearly enough time to take it all in. This was a good time of the year to go as there are fewer tourists (everything is relative) and the temp is ideal.

Made the mistake of flying into the airport that just happened to be a 2-hour taxi (and 70 Euros) from Istanbul. That's what I get for going cheap. We got to the hostel Agora and settled-in before dinner.

we promptly set off to see the sights and sounds of Istanbul. The hostel was very conveniently located just a short walk to the major sights. I won't bore you with more commentary, unless necessary, and will post only a few of the many photos I took.

Of course we had to visit the brother of the uncle's cousin's rug store.

Typical street

Main street in front of major attractions

View from hostel

Entrance to the Black Sea

New bridge before entrance to Black Sea spanning Bosphorus - Europe to Asia

Ships going into the Black Sea

Spice market

Well needless to say there is much, much more to see in Istanbul. A city I plan to return to before heading home.

Check out my next adventure to Transylvania to visit the "Impaler" over Halloween